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Bernheim Original NAS
Whisky: Bernheim Original Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey NAS, 45%
Producer: Heaven Hill Distillery, USA
£52 ≈ R580
For an American whiskey to bear the designation straight wheat whiskey the mash bill, which defines the proportions of the various grains, must be comprised of at least 51% wheat. The remaining components in Bernheim include mainly corn and some barley (including malted barley). Released in 2005, this is still the only straight wheat whisky available. Although carrying no age statement it is known to be bottled after 5 years of cask maturation.
Nose: A thick, freshly toasted, slice of sweet whole-wheat bread. Lightly salted butter, slowly melting on top. And a generous pour of maple syrup over the top. Welcome to Bernheim country!
Taste: Cool and oily on the palette with a complex combination of sweet vanilla and all-spice. Toasted notes remain but less bread and more oak now. The sweetness is both stewed fruit and a berry flambé. A squeeze of citrus.
Finish: Slightly drying with an edge of burnt butter bitterness, but countered with a drop of mint freshness. Satisfyingly long with a conclusion of sweet grains.
My Score: 83
This delectable American is a refreshing, and recommended, change for someone who drinks single malt Scotch 95% of the time. Unfortunately it’s ‘small batch’, which translates into limited distribution and hard-to-find. Why there aren’t more straight wheat whiskies I can’t tell you. (Can anyone tell me?)
Other Scores: JM’09 91.5
Buffalo Trace NAS
Whisky: Buffalo Trace NAS Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45%
Producer: Buffalo Trace Whiskey Distillery, USA
R260 ≈ £23
Buffalo Trace was first introduced in 1999. It’s produced by hand in small batches by vatting together no more than 45 barrels of 9 year old whiskey.
Nose: Rich and hypnotic. Maple syrup on French toast sprinkled with castor sugar. A lovely depth of sweetness (molasses, icing, mint chocolate, vanilla), oak, and just the gentlest touch of light spice. The syrupy sweetness reminds me of Drambui without the alcohol vapour.
Taste: Cool and calming. Easy on the palette with a rewardingly rich texture. Spice swells but never to the point were it loses its seduction. Fruit notes confidently enter the soirée (or more appropriately the shindig as this is American) while vanilla watches the dancing from the sidelines.
Finish: A wonderfully long finish, coating the mouth in sweet and spicy pleasures. Undeniably lip-licking good.
My Score: 85
I’m strict with my scores, so an 85 seems a bit high, but believe me this is an excellent dram. Superbly put together and rich, yet approachable and easy-to-drink. How it’s priced so low is a wonder I am grateful for! If you don’t like overly sweet though, then chances are you won’t think as highly of this bottle o’ American joy.
Other Scores: JM’09 93.5
