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Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt (Shackleton’s Replica)
Whisky: Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt NAS, 47.3%
Producer: Whyte & Mackay, Scotland
R1300 ≈ £101
This blended malt whisky is a replica of the Mackinlay’s whisky, discovered in 2007 buried beneath Ernest Shackleton’s hut near Antarctica since 1909. (See my earlier post for more details.) Included in the blend are malts from Speyside, the Highlands and the Islands, with the oldest malt from the closed Glen Mhor distillery, distilled in their final year of operation in 1983. “Limited” to 50,000 bottles.
Nose: Quite light and sweet to start with unprocessed honey and farm notes. Then it develops into more of an industrial nose with a petrol, paraffin, wood shavings and dust. Also burnt butter and crushed nuts.
Taste: Very creamy. Very soft. Lots of contrast to this with herbal notes, a mix of spices (ginger most evident), sweetness in the form of pears and honey again and a small breeze of smoke. A refined maturity on the palette. Sweet, dry white wine. The entire affair with its range of flavours brings to mind some sort of medieval, medicinal ointment.
Finish: A tad bitter, with some lemon coming through and red apple skin . Dry and long.
My Score: 84
This whisky has a remarkable range of flavours with each being a reflecting point instead of being lost in the blending of it’s constituent parts. Overall its a light and refined blended malt unlike any other I’ve tried. Although very good, remember the price includes the fancy packaging and overall hype of this recreated, once-lost whisky.
Other Scores: DR 92
Kilchoman Winter 2010
Whisky: Kilchoman Winter 2010 NAS, 46%
R550 ≈ £44
This is the fifth official release from the new Islay distillery and is also matured solely in ex-bourbon barrels (first fill and refill) as per its predecessor the Summer 2010 release. The malt is peated to 50ppm, and it’s unchillfiltered and uncoloured as per the previous releases.
Nose: Again this is strong, clean peat combined with pronounced citrus notes- think wet lemon drops, cloudy lemonade and lemon tea. Hints of fresh cedar wood make a welcomed addition to what is quite a one-dimensional, but good, nose.
Taste: Immediately sweet, candied lemon, followed by a salty, peat smoke blowing in from the shore. Although still lemon citrus soaked, the sweetness has a slightly more mixed fruit like lining.
Finish: Shovel loads of salty peat, with a light sweetness just detectable underneath a citrus tartness. Lasting well beyond its age.
My Score: 81
Although very similar, I find that this Winter 2010 release falls slightly short of the preceding Summer 2010 release; the mouthfeel is not as rich nor as mature and the citrus/lemon influence is stronger resulting in more imbalance. The youth is more obvious too which could be expected considering the use of refill casks and not solely first fill, fresh bourbon. Still very impressive for it’s age.
Other Scores: JH 87
Disclosure: This was a complimentary sample provided by Paul from Aficionados (thanks again Paul). This in no way affected my review.
Kilchoman Summer 2010
Whisky: Kilchoman Summer 2010 NAS, 46%
R550 ≈ £44
This is the fourth official release from the new distillery on the Islay block and this time it’s matured solely in ex-bourbon barrels. As per all previous releases it’s unchillfiltered and uncoloured.
Nose: Waves of fresh, clean, crisp peat with a generous helping of lemon and pear served-up with ash and tar. Although the youth is detectable, there is no way you’d guess this is a 3yo. Also has a sweet vanilla edge to it.
Taste: For a few seconds its a bit reserved but then the peat rushes in and nearly sweeps you off your feet. A bit of youth, citrus, alcohol zing, but one that most peat lovers will enjoy. Not as clean on the palette, rather gritty mouthfeel in fact.
Finish: A grating of clove and pepper now, with the peat smoke bellowing for days.
My Score: 83
Another very impressive, peaty release from this young distillery that has managed to create young whisky with an old soul. I’ve read some say that the lack of ex-sherry cask finishing has hurt this release, but I honestly think the difference is easily overlook. If you are South African and would like to finally give Kilchoman a try, see my early post here for details.
My bottle, and the entire SA allocation, are all permanently cloudy (at room temperature.) Is this the case with bottles overseas? Does anyone have an explanation for this?
Disclosure: This was a complimentary sample provided by Paul from Aficionados (thanks again Paul). This in no way affected my review.
Smokehead
Whisky: Smokehead NAS, 43%
Ian Macleod Distillers Limited
± R400 ≈ £36
An unchillfiltered, single malt whisky from an undisclosed Islay distillery bottled by Ian Macleod; owners of Glengoyne distillery and independent bottlers. There is endless speculation as to the distillery of origin with many online swearing they know the truth, only to have another swear a different truth. Released late 2005.
Nose: A rush of peat to the face! Very salty with evident lemon juice, copious iodine and seaweed. The aromas are pronounced and energetic.
Taste: Bellows of young peat in a thick haze of smoke. More of the citrus and salt along with liquorice and some honey and toffee sweetness. A crackle of pepper. It has a light mouthfeel but plenty of vigour.
Finish: Very medicinal and long with a touch more pepper spice emerging near the end. Peat seems to never subside.
My Score: 79
For a younger dram this is well composed, but the peat is powerful and the flavours crisp and brash. The name and packaging tell you what you need to know: I’m young and hip, bold and unconventional. I’m a sucker for young peat, but I’d prefer this with an additional year or two maturation.
Bernheim Original NAS
Whisky: Bernheim Original Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey NAS, 45%
Producer: Heaven Hill Distillery, USA
£52 ≈ R580
For an American whiskey to bear the designation straight wheat whiskey the mash bill, which defines the proportions of the various grains, must be comprised of at least 51% wheat. The remaining components in Bernheim include mainly corn and some barley (including malted barley). Released in 2005, this is still the only straight wheat whisky available. Although carrying no age statement it is known to be bottled after 5 years of cask maturation.
Nose: A thick, freshly toasted, slice of sweet whole-wheat bread. Lightly salted butter, slowly melting on top. And a generous pour of maple syrup over the top. Welcome to Bernheim country!
Taste: Cool and oily on the palette with a complex combination of sweet vanilla and all-spice. Toasted notes remain but less bread and more oak now. The sweetness is both stewed fruit and a berry flambé. A squeeze of citrus.
Finish: Slightly drying with an edge of burnt butter bitterness, but countered with a drop of mint freshness. Satisfyingly long with a conclusion of sweet grains.
My Score: 83
This delectable American is a refreshing, and recommended, change for someone who drinks single malt Scotch 95% of the time. Unfortunately it’s ‘small batch’, which translates into limited distribution and hard-to-find. Why there aren’t more straight wheat whiskies I can’t tell you. (Can anyone tell me?)
Other Scores: JM’09 91.5
