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Balblair 1989
Whisky: Balblair 1989 2nd Release 21yo, 43%
R950 ≈ £77
Balblair relaunched their range of whiskies in 2007 with vintages instead of age statements, new packaging, and what seems to be a whole new quality of whisky- OK, not a new quality per se, but it does seem as if they are bottling more of their better whisky instead of just selling all the good stuff onto blenders.
Nose: A fragrant and fresh summer nose, with a field of grass punctuated by woody oak. Very fruity with apples, pineapple, some citrus (orange and lemon) and banana! There is also a touch of toffee and vanilla sweetness.
Taste: The summer-style freshness continues with lovely home-squeezed lemonade, sherbet and toffee apples. The fruit endures but leans now more towards dried fruit, particularly raisins. Hint of spices appearing.
Finish: The spice arrives head-on with mixed pepper and nutmeg, while the lingering fruit and sweetness tries unsuccessfully to balance it.
My Score: 83
A summery whisky with a really lovely nose and solid palette. The finish doesn’t stand out as much for me, but still a welcomed release from an often underappreciated distillery. Thankfully (although pricey) available in SA since late last year, see here for details.
Disclosure: This was a complimentary sample provided by Paul from Aficionados (thanks again Paul). This in no way affected my review.
Macallan 12yo
Whisky: The Macallan 12yo, 43%
R500 ≈ £41
When it comes to sherry influenced whiskies, few brands can compete with the reputation of The Macallan’s sherry oak range, which is matured exclusively in Spanish oak casks from Jerez, Spain. The 12yo is the entry level whisky in this range with the famous (and pricey) 18yo next in line.
Nose: A moist ginger and date loaf with the sweetness of the sherry rich and evident. A subtle but complex array of spices are present, including cloves, ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Plump raisens, soft oak, and an intricate lace of wood smoke complete the bouquet.
Taste: There is no fooling about here, this is full-bodied, rich and beautifully rounded, smooth and buttery. All the promise of the nose is realised with generous amounts of spice, sherry sweetness, oak and dark fruits, all balanced to precision. The sweetness is honeyed with hints of molasses, mixed berries and toffee.
Finish: The warming ginger and cinnamon outlast the rest of the spice pack, while the buttery smoothness refuses to relinquish it’s grasp making the finish last and last. And if that isn’t enough, notes of dark chocolate and coffee make an added, albeit shy, appearance.
My Score: 86
This “simple” Macallan 12yo is the reason why the distillery deserves to be held in such high regard. It’s rich and complex while all the time remaining soft and balanced. Wonderful whisky, and quite possible as good as a general release, 12yo sherried whisky can be.
Grant’s 12yo
Whisky: Grants’s 12yo, 40%
Producer: William Grant & Sons, Scotland
± £20 ≈ R240 (Unavailable in SA)
Produced by Williams Grant & Sons (owners of Glenfiddich and Balvenie), this blended whisky is equal parts single malts and grain whiskies, with the components married together for six months in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels. Distribution of this expression seems to be limited to France and South America.
Nose: Rich bouquet of citrus, honey and dry grass. The grass is not quite on fire, but it is smoldering with wisps of smoke and earth. Slightly waxy with hints of cinnamon.
Taste: Full bodied and well rounded, with sherry notes and more spice, especially pepper. There’s also a subtle note of herbs ground with coffee and orange rind. Smoke is slightly more pronounced now, but still not exactly peaty. The viscosity a little weak for my liking.
Finish: Warming with the spice lingering but balanced with the sweeter honey. Slightly tannic and astringent.
My Score: 79
Another drinkable, good-value blended whisky from Grant’s. Flavours are well married and the experience is smooth and easy. The faint smoke and earth notes are good nuances, with the grains providing varied sweetness. If you find yourself at a bar in France or South America, order a double.
Other Scores: JM’12 89.5
BenRiach Heart of Speyside
Whisky: The BenRiach Heart of Speyside NAS, 40%
± £25 ≈ R310 (Unavailable in SA)
This entry level whisky in The BenRiach’s core range was first released in 2004 after the distillery changed ownership in the same year. It’s approximately a 7yo, matured mostly in fresh and refill bourbon casks. The name is derived from the distillery’s location in Elgin in the “heart of Speyside”, Scotland.
Nose: A light fragrant nose with drops of honey, fresh heather and dry grass. Dusty cut timber, and diluted pear and apple juice. It has the typical farmyard notes but also has a periodic gust of fresh air that creates an enjoyable interplay.
Taste: Biscuits and malt, with a spike of sugar and jam sweetness followed by another spike of pepper and spice. Juicy barley and butterscotch.
Finish: A little hot wood spice that translates nicely into a longer finish. An unexpected breathe of soft peat smoke.
My Score: 78
A simple and honest whisky without any obvious flaws that offers good flavours. There are signs of it’s youth, primarily on the palette, but the overall effect is a positive one adding some sprightliness. Very good value for money.
Macallan Whisky Maker’s Edition
Whisky: The Macallan Whisky Maker’s Edition NAS, 42.8%
± £70 ≈ R865 (Unavailable in SA)
The Macallan 1824 Collection is exclusive to travel retail and consists of four whiskies, each telling a story of the distillery’s history. This expression has apparently been crafted by The Macallan whisky maker for his personal enjoyment and uses both ex-sherry and ex-bourbon casks. Judging from the colour there’s a lot more sherry influence here, and since that’s what The Macallan are famous for, I’m looking forward to this.
Nose: Plenty of the typical sherry fruit along with apple and oranges, as well as the usual sherry spices including nutmeg and clove. A very moreish ginger and nut biscuit among the rich oak lined with sweet toffee and honey. The depth indicates some well aged casks, but although the flavours are here, the integration isn’t.
Taste: Lots more fruit, nutmeg and ginger among the aged smoothness with the subtler sweet notes persisting. A serious kick of pepper at the end of the palette. Unfortunately I’m still finding it disjointed.
Finish: A medium finish with the spice resonating well after the liquid is gone. Notes of charred oak and a slight hint of dark chocolate. Some serious heat burning-up here.
My Score: 78
I’m disappointed. Although there are nuances here akin to the highly regarded sherried Macallans (like the 18yo), it’s unbalanced and not the usual refined experience I expect from the distillery. I even found the less-sherried Select Oak expression from the same series moderately better. Macallan can do sherry better than this without doubt.
Other Scores: JH 83
