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Macallan Whisky Maker’s Edition
Whisky: The Macallan Whisky Maker’s Edition NAS, 42.8%
± £70 ≈ R865 (Unavailable in SA)
The Macallan 1824 Collection is exclusive to travel retail and consists of four whiskies, each telling a story of the distillery’s history. This expression has apparently been crafted by The Macallan whisky maker for his personal enjoyment and uses both ex-sherry and ex-bourbon casks. Judging from the colour there’s a lot more sherry influence here, and since that’s what The Macallan are famous for, I’m looking forward to this.
Nose: Plenty of the typical sherry fruit along with apple and oranges, as well as the usual sherry spices including nutmeg and clove. A very moreish ginger and nut biscuit among the rich oak lined with sweet toffee and honey. The depth indicates some well aged casks, but although the flavours are here, the integration isn’t.
Taste: Lots more fruit, nutmeg and ginger among the aged smoothness with the subtler sweet notes persisting. A serious kick of pepper at the end of the palette. Unfortunately I’m still finding it disjointed.
Finish: A medium finish with the spice resonating well after the liquid is gone. Notes of charred oak and a slight hint of dark chocolate. Some serious heat burning-up here.
My Score: 78
I’m disappointed. Although there are nuances here akin to the highly regarded sherried Macallans (like the 18yo), it’s unbalanced and not the usual refined experience I expect from the distillery. I even found the less-sherried Select Oak expression from the same series moderately better. Macallan can do sherry better than this without doubt.
Other Scores: JH 83
Talisker Distillers Edition 1993
Whisky: Talisker 1993/2006 Distillers Edition (TD-S: 5IU), 45.8%
± £54 ≈ R600 (Unavailable in SA)
As per all Diageo’s Distillers Editions (DEs), this whisky has been double-matured, with the additional maturation in ex-sherry casks. For all Talisker DEs, Amoroso (a sweetened Oloroso) sherry butts from Jerez are used.
Nose: Ripe and juicy, red grapes along with back currant, cherries and an intimation of soft, worn leather. Also notes of muscovado sugar and a gaily, leaf smoke with a faint sea-air backdrop.
Taste: At first it’s rich and lush, and more powerful than the palette eluded to, with soft spices, including cloves and the typically Talisker pepper notes (although more toned down than usual). It then becomes slightly drying, but all the way crisp with the sweet, dark, ripe fruits from the nose finding a solid footing to repeatedly punch flavour from.
Finish: Reassuringly long with lingering, peppery tannins. The smoke and spice become stronger near the end for a final cheer. Although there is a spicy heat, the intensity of the palette has calmed.
My Score: 89
A carefully complex, yet very exciting, balance between the lavish fruits and the older and refined leather, spice and smoke. Don’t expect it to taste like your usual Talisker 10yo- there is a resemblance, but the sherry cask influence brings a completely new dimension to the Talisker profile. Although this is the 1993 release and may be hard to find (if at all), I believe more recent releases are similarly worth trying. A truly excellent whisky.
Other Scores: Couldn’t find any
Bunnahabhain Darach Ùr
Whisky: Bunnahabhain Darach Ùr NAS, Batch No. 5, 46.3%
± £53 ≈ R668 (Unavailable in SA)
This exclusive duty-free Bunnahabhain has been available since around 2008. Darach Ùr means new oak in Scots Gaelic, as only new oak casks have been used for maturing the spirit- well that’s what the bottle says anyway. Although there is no age statement the whisky is rumoured to contain whisky up to 20 years old.
Nose: Voluptuous vanilla with toffee, butter and toasted oak shavings. Although the vanilla isn’t overpowering (contrary to what you may expect from only new oak), there isn’t much else to balance it and the wood notes are surprisingly sedate.
Taste: Now here’s the oak! Wow. Very woody and spicy with big oak notes, ginger and cinnamon. Has a fizzy, salty mouthfeel to it but the weight of the liquid is spot-on. The amount of spice borders on too much.
Finish: A good length, but with the spiciness I’d almost prefer it to be a bit shorter. Oak remains with a sweet drizzle of vanilla.
My Score: 78
Not my favourite Bunnahabhain and not very typical of the distillery with the house profile barely distinguishable. It’s still a good whisky though and some may enjoy the strong oak and spice on the palette, but for me it’s a bit too lopsided. Interesting approach, although I still doubt only virgin oak casks have been used. The website specifies that it’s the first time the casks “have been used for maturing single malt Scotch whisky”, which leaves leeway for the casks to have been used for bourbon previously, thus only being first-fill, ex-bourbon casks and not solely new oak. But perhaps I’m thinking about this too hard! 
Still enjoyable and still worth buying if you come across it.
Other Scores: SV 78, JM’11 87
Kilchoman Winter 2010
Whisky: Kilchoman Winter 2010 NAS, 46%
R550 ≈ £44
This is the fifth official release from the new Islay distillery and is also matured solely in ex-bourbon barrels (first fill and refill) as per its predecessor the Summer 2010 release. The malt is peated to 50ppm, and it’s unchillfiltered and uncoloured as per the previous releases.
Nose: Again this is strong, clean peat combined with pronounced citrus notes- think wet lemon drops, cloudy lemonade and lemon tea. Hints of fresh cedar wood make a welcomed addition to what is quite a one-dimensional, but good, nose.
Taste: Immediately sweet, candied lemon, followed by a salty, peat smoke blowing in from the shore. Although still lemon citrus soaked, the sweetness has a slightly more mixed fruit like lining.
Finish: Shovel loads of salty peat, with a light sweetness just detectable underneath a citrus tartness. Lasting well beyond its age.
My Score: 81
Although very similar, I find that this Winter 2010 release falls slightly short of the preceding Summer 2010 release; the mouthfeel is not as rich nor as mature and the citrus/lemon influence is stronger resulting in more imbalance. The youth is more obvious too which could be expected considering the use of refill casks and not solely first fill, fresh bourbon. Still very impressive for it’s age.
Other Scores: JH 87
Disclosure: This was a complimentary sample provided by Paul from Aficionados (thanks again Paul). This in no way affected my review.
Kilchoman Summer 2010
Whisky: Kilchoman Summer 2010 NAS, 46%
R550 ≈ £44
This is the fourth official release from the new distillery on the Islay block and this time it’s matured solely in ex-bourbon barrels. As per all previous releases it’s unchillfiltered and uncoloured.
Nose: Waves of fresh, clean, crisp peat with a generous helping of lemon and pear served-up with ash and tar. Although the youth is detectable, there is no way you’d guess this is a 3yo. Also has a sweet vanilla edge to it.
Taste: For a few seconds its a bit reserved but then the peat rushes in and nearly sweeps you off your feet. A bit of youth, citrus, alcohol zing, but one that most peat lovers will enjoy. Not as clean on the palette, rather gritty mouthfeel in fact.
Finish: A grating of clove and pepper now, with the peat smoke bellowing for days.
My Score: 83
Another very impressive, peaty release from this young distillery that has managed to create young whisky with an old soul. I’ve read some say that the lack of ex-sherry cask finishing has hurt this release, but I honestly think the difference is easily overlook. If you are South African and would like to finally give Kilchoman a try, see my early post here for details.
My bottle, and the entire SA allocation, are all permanently cloudy (at room temperature.) Is this the case with bottles overseas? Does anyone have an explanation for this?
Disclosure: This was a complimentary sample provided by Paul from Aficionados (thanks again Paul). This in no way affected my review.
