Blog Archives
Macallan 12yo
Whisky: The Macallan 12yo, 43%
R500 ≈ £41
When it comes to sherry influenced whiskies, few brands can compete with the reputation of The Macallan’s sherry oak range, which is matured exclusively in Spanish oak casks from Jerez, Spain. The 12yo is the entry level whisky in this range with the famous (and pricey) 18yo next in line.
Nose: A moist ginger and date loaf with the sweetness of the sherry rich and evident. A subtle but complex array of spices are present, including cloves, ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Plump raisens, soft oak, and an intricate lace of wood smoke complete the bouquet.
Taste: There is no fooling about here, this is full-bodied, rich and beautifully rounded, smooth and buttery. All the promise of the nose is realised with generous amounts of spice, sherry sweetness, oak and dark fruits, all balanced to precision. The sweetness is honeyed with hints of molasses, mixed berries and toffee.
Finish: The warming ginger and cinnamon outlast the rest of the spice pack, while the buttery smoothness refuses to relinquish it’s grasp making the finish last and last. And if that isn’t enough, notes of dark chocolate and coffee make an added, albeit shy, appearance.
My Score: 86
This “simple” Macallan 12yo is the reason why the distillery deserves to be held in such high regard. It’s rich and complex while all the time remaining soft and balanced. Wonderful whisky, and quite possible as good as a general release, 12yo sherried whisky can be.
BenRiach Heart of Speyside
Whisky: The BenRiach Heart of Speyside NAS, 40%
± £25 ≈ R310 (Unavailable in SA)
This entry level whisky in The BenRiach’s core range was first released in 2004 after the distillery changed ownership in the same year. It’s approximately a 7yo, matured mostly in fresh and refill bourbon casks. The name is derived from the distillery’s location in Elgin in the “heart of Speyside”, Scotland.
Nose: A light fragrant nose with drops of honey, fresh heather and dry grass. Dusty cut timber, and diluted pear and apple juice. It has the typical farmyard notes but also has a periodic gust of fresh air that creates an enjoyable interplay.
Taste: Biscuits and malt, with a spike of sugar and jam sweetness followed by another spike of pepper and spice. Juicy barley and butterscotch.
Finish: A little hot wood spice that translates nicely into a longer finish. An unexpected breathe of soft peat smoke.
My Score: 78
A simple and honest whisky without any obvious flaws that offers good flavours. There are signs of it’s youth, primarily on the palette, but the overall effect is a positive one adding some sprightliness. Very good value for money.
Macallan Whisky Maker’s Edition
Whisky: The Macallan Whisky Maker’s Edition NAS, 42.8%
± £70 ≈ R865 (Unavailable in SA)
The Macallan 1824 Collection is exclusive to travel retail and consists of four whiskies, each telling a story of the distillery’s history. This expression has apparently been crafted by The Macallan whisky maker for his personal enjoyment and uses both ex-sherry and ex-bourbon casks. Judging from the colour there’s a lot more sherry influence here, and since that’s what The Macallan are famous for, I’m looking forward to this.
Nose: Plenty of the typical sherry fruit along with apple and oranges, as well as the usual sherry spices including nutmeg and clove. A very moreish ginger and nut biscuit among the rich oak lined with sweet toffee and honey. The depth indicates some well aged casks, but although the flavours are here, the integration isn’t.
Taste: Lots more fruit, nutmeg and ginger among the aged smoothness with the subtler sweet notes persisting. A serious kick of pepper at the end of the palette. Unfortunately I’m still finding it disjointed.
Finish: A medium finish with the spice resonating well after the liquid is gone. Notes of charred oak and a slight hint of dark chocolate. Some serious heat burning-up here.
My Score: 78
I’m disappointed. Although there are nuances here akin to the highly regarded sherried Macallans (like the 18yo), it’s unbalanced and not the usual refined experience I expect from the distillery. I even found the less-sherried Select Oak expression from the same series moderately better. Macallan can do sherry better than this without doubt.
Other Scores: JH 83
The Balvenie 12yo Signature
Whisky: The Balvenie 12yo Signature, 40%
Limited Release Batch No. 001
£34 ≈ R400
This 12 year old Balvenie was released in 2008 and was launched to replace the 10 year old Founders Reserve (tasting notes for this one coming soon too). This spirit was aged in three different casks: first fill bourbon barrels, refill casks and sherry butts.
Nose: A creamy wave of buttery biscuits, subtle orange and sprinkle of ginger. The archetypal Balvenie honey is there, but much lighter than usual, sort of a honey-light, zero calorie version. Dried dates abound and a presence of a soft nuttiness.
Taste: Refreshingly crisp with more butter and lovely, rich vanilla notes contrasted well with allspice and ginger. A generous helping of moist, brandy fruitcake. The mouthfeel, however, sadly lacks confidence with its loose wateriness.
Finish: Although the enjoyable fruitcake, vanilla and spice persist, the lack of viscosity leads to a premature petering out.
My Score: 81
Another well rounded Balvenie but this time with an added dose of butter and the honey notes toned down. It’s only real shortcoming in my opinion is the wateriness which I can’t help but feel a higher ABV would have helped avoid; surely as a limited release it should be cask strength, or at the very least bottled at 46%. Not as good as the standard 12yo DoubleWood. (A side note: pairs well with a Côte d’Or milk chocolate.)
Other Scores: JM’11 93
Glen Elgin 12yo
Whisky: Glen Elgin 12yo, 43%
± R580 ≈ £52
Glen Elgin is known for its continued use of traditional worm-tubs, being a prime component in the White Horse blend, and one of Diageo’s Classic Malts representing the Speyside region. It’s first official distillery bottling was released in 1977, and since then it has seen many guises, latest of which is this official 12yo available since 2005.
Nose: Very floral and fruity with red gapes and both prunes and plums. A glossy wood oil, an unmistakeable nuttiness, and hints of sweet malt appearing throughout.
Taste: You have to hold this in your mouth for a few seconds to appreciate it; as the weight of the spirit slowing sinks in your mouth and saturates your taste buds with a slick, oily presence and whisper of spice poised with the rich, honeyed malt.
Finish: As you swallow there is a spark of something great to come but it peters out as quickly as a bolt of lighting and you’re left with a drying and slightly scorched (bitter) sweetness that replaces the great oily softness from before.
My Score: 81
The highlight of this dram is the way it sits on the palette with its plush body and cradling mouthfeel. Unfortunately the finish lacks conviction. Although it holds up well to a drop of water (testament to the robustness of the spirit) it’s really not required, being plenty smooth just as-is.
